Tomato Fertilizer

Once weekly through the growing season. Use 1 Tbs per gallon of water while plants are under 12 inches, then move to 2 Tbs per gallon once they're large or fruiting. Container and grow-bag tomatoes exhaust their potting mix fastest, so weekly feeding matters most there — a hose end sprayer set to the same rates covers full rows.

At 1 tsp per quart, the 8 oz bottle makes about 48 watering cans of feed. For a typical shelf of 10–15 plants fed every 1–2 weeks in season, that's several months of feeding — and the 32 oz bottle four times that.

It helps. Blossom end rot is a calcium shortage at the fruit, and this formula carries unusually high calcium (2.1%) — but roots only move calcium in evenly moist soil, so irregular watering causes it even when calcium is plentiful. Feed weekly, mulch, and water on a schedule; fruit that sets after you fix both usually comes in clean. Affected tomatoes don't recover.

Too much nitrogen relative to potash and phosphorus is the classic nutritional cause — this formula's potash-forward ratio is built to avoid it. Beyond nutrition, tomatoes drop blossoms in heat above roughly 90°F and won't set well in shade; give them the sunniest spot you have and let the weekly feeding supply the rest.

Yes — it's a mineral fertilizer derived from kelp and standard plant nutrient salts, made for edible gardens. You can feed right up through harvest with no waiting period. Rinse tomatoes before eating as you normally would, especially if you've been leaf misting.

Transplants green up and start moving within 1–2 weeks of weekly feeding. Fruit response shows over the next cluster: more flowers that hold, then heavier, better-filled fruit. Tomatoes already on the vine won't resize much — the following set shows the difference, and a starved plant keeps improving through the season.