Philodendron Fertilizer

Help philodendrons maintain full, healthy leaves and steady vine or upright growth with liquid fertilizer made for these popular tropical houseplants.
Mix it into your normal watering routine as directed for simple, consistent feeding throughout active indoor growth.
Why You'll Love It
- Steady Growth For philodendrons potted a while back that have slowed or stalled.
- Healthy Vines Supports fast vines on heartleaf, brasil and micans types.
- Strong Roots Feeds trailing and climbing philodendrons in ordinary indoor mix.
Made by growers
More than a bottle on a shelf.
- Talk to real plant people. The team that mixes the formula answers your email.
- Made in-house, in the USA. Every bottle mixed and filled by us, not a third party.
- We're growers, not resellers. We use this on our own plants before it ships.
- Bundle savings only here. Pair any two TPS formulas — your order ships free.
Liquid philodendron fertilizer with a gentle 3-1-2 NPK plus kelp and micronutrients. Supports fast vines and big, healthy leaves.
How to Use Philodendron Fertilizer
| Method | Amount | How Often |
|---|---|---|
| Watering can | 1 tsp per quart (32 oz) of water | Spring & summer: every 1–2 weeks |
| Watering can | Same dilution | Fall & winter: every 4 weeks |
| Leaf misting (optional) | ½ tsp per pint (16 oz) of water | Every 1–2 weeks |
Mix into your normal watering — no separate feeding routine needed.
What's Inside
The 3-1-2 ratio (3% nitrogen, 1% phosphate, 2% potash) mirrors what fast-growing foliage plants actually consume — nitrogen-forward for continuous leaf production, without the excess phosphorus most potting mixes never use. Philodendrons are grown entirely for their leaves, and this ratio keeps them pushing new growth rather than stalling. Over two-thirds of the nitrogen is nitrate nitrogen, the form roots absorb directly, which means faster response and lower burn risk than cheap ammonium-heavy formulas.
Beyond NPK: sea kelp (Ascophyllum nodosum) for natural growth compounds, plus calcium (1%), magnesium (0.5%), iron, boron, copper, manganese, and zinc — the micronutrients that keep leaves large, deep green, and glossy rather than pale, small, and slow, which is where potted philodendrons decline first once their mix is spent.
Made For
Every philodendron: heartleaf, brasil, micans, and other trailing types, plus upright and climbing varieties like Birkin, selloum, xanadu, and the rarer aroids — trailing from shelves, climbing a moss pole, or potted on a table.
Problems It Solves
- Small new leaves that never reach full size
- Pale or yellowing foliage instead of deep green
- Slow or stalled growth in plants potted over a year
- Leggy vines with wide gaps between leaves
FAQs
How often should I feed my philodendron?
Every 1–2 weeks during spring and summer while it's actively growing, and every 4 weeks in fall and winter. Diluting into your regular watering (1 tsp per quart) keeps nutrition steady without buildup — philodendrons respond better to small consistent feeding than occasional heavy doses.
How do I get bigger philodendron leaves?
Leaf size comes down to steady nitrogen, enough light, and support to climb. This formula covers the nutrition, running nitrogen ahead of phosphorus and potassium. Pair regular feeding with bright indirect light and a moss pole for climbing types, and each new leaf should come in larger than the last.
Can I use it on rare and variegated philodendrons?
Yes. Heartleaf, micans, Birkin, and the rarer variegated aroids all share the same foliage-first needs — the dilution and schedule work the same across them. For heavily variegated plants, bright indirect light matters most for holding the variegation; the feeding supports the green growth that powers the plant.
Will this burn my plant?
No — at the directed dilution, the gentle 3-1-2 formula is designed for regular use. Nitrate-based nitrogen and low salt concentration make burn very unlikely. For recently repotted or newly acquired plants, start at half strength for the first two feedings.
When will I see results?
New growth typically comes in greener within the first couple of weeks of regular feeding, and plants potted over a year tend to show the most noticeable turnaround. Larger leaves follow over the growing season as the plant keeps pushing new growth.
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