Orange Tree Fertilizer
Support glossy leaves, fragrant blossoms, and healthy fruit development and quality with a liquid fertilizer made for orange trees. It provides consistent nutrition for healthy growth while keeping plant care straightforward.
The liquid formula fits into regular watering, making consistent feeding easy for everyday plant care.
Why You'll Love It
- Fruit Development For small or thin-skinned oranges on an underfed tree.
- Healthy Foliage Supports glossy leaves rather than yellowing between the veins.
- Steady Growth Feeds canopy growth on established and potted orange trees.
Made by growers
More than a bottle on a shelf.
- Talk to real plant people. The team that mixes the formula answers your email.
- Made in-house, in the USA. Every bottle mixed and filled by us, not a third party.
- We're growers, not resellers. We use this on our own plants before it ships.
- Bundle savings only here. Pair any two TPS formulas — your order ships free.
Liquid orange tree fertilizer with a 3.6-3-5.1 NPK plus kelp. Supports glossy leaves, fragrant blossoms, and sweeter fruit.
How to Use Orange Tree Fertilizer
| Method | Amount | How Often |
|---|---|---|
| Watering can | 2 Tbsp (30mL) per gallon of water | Spring & Summer: every 1-2 weeks |
| Watering can | Same dilution | Fall & Winter: every 4 weeks |
| Hose-end sprayer | Set dial to 1 oz (30mL) setting | Spring & Summer: every 1-2 weeks |
| Leaf misting (optional) | 1 tsp per quart (32 oz) of water, spray on leaves | every 1-2 weeks |
Mix into your normal watering — no separate feeding routine needed.
What's Inside
The 3.6-3-5.1 ratio is close to balanced with a lean toward potassium, which suits citrus that needs to feed its canopy and fruit at the same time — the 3.6% nitrogen and 3% phosphate keep leaves and roots growing while the 5.1% soluble potash builds fruit size and skin quality. The nitrogen is nitrate nitrogen, which roots absorb directly and immediately without waiting on soil microbes to convert it, so you get responsive feeding with low burn risk — important for citrus grown in containers and fast-draining soil where roots sit close to the fertilizer.
Beyond NPK: sea kelp (Ascophyllum nodosum) for natural growth compounds, plus 2.1% calcium (unusually high) and 0.75% magnesium, with iron, manganese, zinc, boron, and copper rounding out the micronutrients. Citrus is a heavy magnesium and iron feeder — magnesium shortfall shows first as yellowing between the veins on older leaves, and iron shortfall does the same on new growth at the tips, both common in potted and alkaline-soil citrus.
Made For
Built for orange trees — navel, Valencia, blood orange, and other sweet oranges — grown in the ground or in containers, including dwarf and patio varieties kept on a porch or indoors.
Problems It Solves
- Yellowing between the veins on older leaves
- Small or thin-skinned oranges
- Slow canopy growth on an established tree
- Pale new growth at the branch tips
FAQs
How often should I feed my orange tree?
During spring and summer, feed every 1-2 weeks with 2 Tbsp per gallon in a watering can, or use the hose-end sprayer on the 1 oz setting. In fall and winter, cut back to once every 4 weeks — citrus slows its growth in cool months and doesn't need the same feeding pace. Keep the soil evenly moist between feedings.
Why does my orange tree flower but not set fruit?
Flowers dropping without setting fruit is usually not a nutrition problem. Young trees under three years often drop bloom until they mature, and even established trees naturally shed most flowers — a small fraction becoming fruit is normal. Inconsistent watering, temperature swings during bloom, and lack of pollinator access matter more here. This fertilizer supports strong growth and fruit development, but it can't force a tree to hold fruit it isn't ready to carry.
Why are my orange leaves turning yellow?
Yellowing between the veins on older leaves usually points to magnesium shortage; the same pattern on new tip growth points to iron, common in potted or alkaline-soil citrus. This blend supplies both. But uniform yellowing across whole leaves, or yellowing with leaf drop, often means overwatering or poor drainage instead — check that the soil dries partway down between waterings before assuming it's a feeding issue.
Can I use this on a potted or dwarf orange tree indoors?
Yes. The nitrate nitrogen absorbs directly and is low-burn, which suits containers where roots sit close to the fertilizer. Use the same 2 Tbsp per gallon watering-can rate. Potted citrus leaches nutrients faster with frequent watering, so the every-1-2-week spring and summer schedule matters more here than for in-ground trees. Make sure the pot drains freely.
Will this make my oranges sweeter?
Potassium supports fruit sugar development and skin quality, so adequate feeding helps fruit reach its potential. But sweetness is driven mostly by sunlight and ripening time on the tree — oranges don't sweeten after picking, so leaving fruit to fully ripen matters more than any fertilizer. Give the tree full sun and let fruit hang until fully colored and slightly soft.
When will I see results?
New feeder-root and foliage response typically shows within a few weeks. Correcting magnesium or iron yellowing shows on new growth over several weeks — existing yellowed leaves won't re-green. Fruit-size and skin improvements track the tree's seasonal cycle, so the clearest gains show across the next fruit set rather than immediately.
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Citrus Fertilizer Fruit Tree Fertilizer Tree & Shrub Fertilizer