Our Mycorrhizal Fungi for Citrus Trees is a liquid inoculant of beneficial mycorrhizal fungi that partners with plant roots. It helps roots reach more water and nutrients and supports a living soil around them.
Stronger trees, better fruit, less stress.
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Soil and root health are shaped by watering, drainage, light and season as much as by what you add, so this is one part of overall plant care.
Supports healthy fruit development for vibrant, beautiful citrus plant.
Supports fresh shoot and leaf development for a fuller, thriving citrus tree.
Supports healthy root systems for better water and nutrient uptake.
Transplanting
Sprinkle on the roots and in the hole when transplanting
Once, at planting
New soil prep
Mix in 4 Tbs per cubic foot of soil
Once, when preparing soil
Established trees & shrubs — small trees (spring & summer)
1/2 to 1 tsp, spread evenly around the trunk and gently mixed into the top of the soil, then watered
Apply every 2-4 weeks
Established trees & shrubs — medium trees (spring & summer)
1 to 2 tsp, same application
Apply every 2-4 weeks
Established trees & shrubs — large trees (spring & summer)
1 to 1.5 Tbs, same application
Apply every 2-4 weeks
Established trees & shrubs (fall & winter)
Same amounts
Apply every 4-8 weeks
Compost tea
1/4 - 1/2 tsp per gallon of compost tea
Add when brewing
It depends on the moment. Mycorrhizal Fungi for Citrus Trees is a dry inoculant, so the goal is contact with roots and soil. At transplanting, sprinkle it directly on the roots and into the hole; that root contact is the most valuable application. For new soil, mix 4 tablespoons per cubic foot. For established trees, spread half a teaspoon to 1.5 tablespoons by tree size around the trunk, mix gently into the topsoil and water, every 2–4 weeks in spring and summer and every 4–8 weeks in fall and winter.
They’re fungi that colonize the roots and grow outward as a network of fine threads, effectively extending the root system to reach water and nutrients, especially phosphorus, well beyond where the roots themselves stop. The tree feeds the fungi sugars in exchange. Mycorrhizal Fungi for Citrus Trees carries Rhizophagus intraradices, the species that partners directly with citrus roots, backed by soil bacteria and Trichoderma. The practical result is faster establishment, better drought resilience, and more efficient use of the fertilizer you apply.
Yes. Mycorrhizal Fungi for Citrus Trees contains no NPK at all. The fungi and soil bacteria improve how effectively roots find and absorb nutrients, but they don’t supply nitrogen, phosphate or potassium themselves. Run it alongside your citrus fertilizer: the inoculant builds the root system and soil biology, and the fertilizer supplies the nutrition. Together they address the common problem of a tree that’s fed regularly but responds weakly.
At planting, whenever that happens. Direct contact between Mycorrhizal Fungi for Citrus Trees and bare roots at transplanting does more than any number of later surface applications, because the fungi colonize the roots they touch. If your tree is already in the ground, don’t dig it up; apply around the trunk on the maintenance schedule and let watering carry it down. Repotting a container tree is another prime opportunity to get the inoculant onto the roots directly.
It depends on why your tree is struggling. If the cause is poor establishment, transplant shock, or old, depleted soil, rebuilding root function and soil biology is exactly what Mycorrhizal Fungi for Citrus Trees does. But yellowing citrus leaves usually trace to a nutrient shortage, often iron, manganese or zinc, or to overwatering, and an inoculant corrects neither. Check watering and feeding first, then use this to strengthen the root system underneath so the tree can use what it’s given.
Soil biology works on a longer clock than fertilizer. Colonization takes several weeks after root contact, so expect nothing visible for the first month. The clearest evidence shows in transplants: trees inoculated at planting with Mycorrhizal Fungi for Citrus Trees hold their leaves and push new growth sooner, typically within 4–8 weeks. On established trees the payoff is gradual, showing as steadier growth and a stronger response to feeding over a season.
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