Mycorrhizal Fungi for Citrus Trees
Mycorrhizal fungi for citrus trees that team up with roots to pull in more water and nutrients. Stronger trees, better fruit, less stress.
Apply it around the root zone or into growing media as directed to make beneficial biology an easy part of planting, repotting, or routine garden care.
Why You'll Love It
- Root Partnership Fungi that colonize citrus roots and team up with them underground.
- Nutrient Uptake Extends the root system's reach for water and soil nutrients.
- Stress Resilience Supports established and newly planted citrus through stress.
Made by growers
More than a bottle on a shelf.
- Talk to real plant people. The team that mixes the formula answers your email.
- Made in-house, in the USA. Every bottle mixed and filled by us, not a third party.
- We're growers, not resellers. We use this on our own plants before it ships.
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Mycorrhizal fungi for citrus trees that team up with roots to pull in more water and nutrients. Stronger trees, better fruit, less stress.
How to Use Mycorrhizal Fungi for Citrus Trees
| Method | Amount | How Often |
|---|---|---|
| Transplanting | Sprinkle on the roots and in the hole when transplanting | Once, at planting |
| New soil prep | Mix in 4 Tbs per cubic foot of soil | Once, when preparing soil |
| Established trees & shrubs — small trees (spring & summer) | 1/2 to 1 tsp, spread evenly around the trunk and gently mixed into the top of the soil, then watered | Apply every 2-4 weeks |
| Established trees & shrubs — medium trees (spring & summer) | 1 to 2 tsp, same application | Apply every 2-4 weeks |
| Established trees & shrubs — large trees (spring & summer) | 1 to 1.5 Tbs, same application | Apply every 2-4 weeks |
| Established trees & shrubs (fall & winter) | Same amounts | Apply every 4-8 weeks |
| Compost tea | 1/4 - 1/2 tsp per gallon of compost tea | Add when brewing |
This is a dry inoculant, not a fertilizer — the goal is getting it in contact with roots and soil, not dissolving it in water. The biggest payoff is direct root contact at transplanting; surface applications on established trees work their way down with watering.
What's Inside
Three groups of living organisms, measured in colony-forming units rather than NPK. The mycorrhizal fungi — including Rhizophagus intraradices, the species that partners directly with citrus roots — colonize the root system and extend it with fine fungal threads, effectively multiplying the root area pulling in water, phosphorus, and micronutrients. That partnership is why inoculated transplants establish faster: the tree gets a mature root network's reach before it has grown one.
Backing the fungi, a bench of soil bacteria — Bacillus subtilis and five other Bacillus and Paenibacillus species at 680 million cfu per pound each, plus Streptomyces — improves nutrient cycling in the root zone, and two Trichoderma species help beneficial organisms dominate the soil around the roots. It carries no NPK by design: this builds the biological system that makes your citrus fertilizer more effective, not a replacement for it.
Made For
Lemon, lime, orange, grapefruit, mandarin, and kumquat trees — in-ground and container-grown — at their highest-leverage moments: transplanting a new tree, repotting, preparing a planting hole, or reviving an established tree in tired soil.
Problems It Solves
- Newly planted citrus that sulks for months instead of establishing
- Transplant shock after moving or repotting a tree
- Established trees in old, depleted soil that respond weakly to fertilizer
- Container citrus with a rootbound, underperforming root system
FAQs
How do I apply mycorrhizal fungi to citrus trees?
It depends on the moment. At transplanting, sprinkle it directly on the roots and into the hole — that root contact is the highest-value application. For new soil, mix 4 Tbs per cubic foot. For established trees, spread 1/2 tsp to 1.5 Tbs by tree size around the trunk, mix gently into the topsoil, and water — every 2-4 weeks in spring and summer, every 4-8 weeks in fall and winter.
What do mycorrhizae actually do for a citrus tree?
They're fungi that colonize the roots and grow outward as a network of fine threads, functioning as an extension of the root system — reaching water and nutrients, especially phosphorus, well beyond where the roots themselves stop. The tree feeds the fungi sugars in exchange. The practical result is faster establishment, better drought resilience, and more efficient use of the fertilizer you apply.
Do I still need fertilizer if I use this?
Yes — this contains no NPK at all. Mycorrhizae and soil bacteria improve how effectively roots find and absorb nutrients, but they don't supply nitrogen, phosphate, or potassium themselves. Run it alongside your citrus fertilizer: the inoculant builds the root system and soil biology, the fertilizer supplies the nutrition. Together they solve the common problem of a tree that's fed regularly but responds weakly.
When is the best time to apply it?
At planting, whenever that happens — direct contact between the inoculant and bare roots at transplanting beats any number of later surface applications, because the fungi colonize roots they touch. If your tree is already in the ground, don't dig it up; apply around the trunk on the label schedule and let watering carry it down. Repotting a container tree is another prime opportunity.
Will this help a struggling or yellowing citrus tree?
It depends on why the tree is struggling. If the cause is poor establishment, transplant shock, or dead, depleted soil, rebuilding root function and soil biology addresses it directly. But yellowing citrus leaves usually trace to a nutrient deficiency — often iron, manganese, or zinc — or to overwatering, and an inoculant fixes neither. Check watering and feeding first; use this to strengthen the root system underneath.
When will I see results?
Soil biology works on a longer clock than fertilizer. Mycorrhizal colonization takes several weeks after root contact, so expect nothing visible for the first month. The clearest evidence shows in transplants: trees inoculated at planting hold their leaves and push new growth sooner, typically within 4-8 weeks. On established trees, the payoff is gradual — steadier growth and better response to feeding over a season.
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