Hydroponic Nutrients
Complete hydroponic nutrients for vegetables, strawberries, herbs, and greens. One easy solution for DWC, drip, and other hydro systems.
Mix it into your reservoir or feedwater as directed for a straightforward nutrition routine that keeps hydroponic feeding easier to manage.
Made by growers
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- Talk to real plant people. The team that mixes the formula answers your email.
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- We're growers, not resellers. We use this on our own plants before it ships.
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Hydroponic Nutrients with a balanced, potassium-forward 4-3-6 NPK and a full micronutrient package — made to feed plants grown in water without soil, from leafy greens to fruiting crops. The complete ratio covers everything a soilless plant needs directly through the root zone, since there's no soil to hold or buffer nutrients, while the added calcium, magnesium, and micros prevent the deficiencies that show up fast in hydroponic systems.
How to Use Hydroponic Nutrients
| Method | Amount | How Often |
|---|---|---|
| Hydroponic systems | 5 mL (1 tsp) per quart of feedwater | Leafy plants: every 2 weeks; Fruiting plants: weekly |
| Seed pod systems | 5 mL (1 tsp) per 3 standard growing pods, at the start and again as needed | As needed |
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What's Inside
The 4-3-6 ratio is balanced and led by potassium, built for soilless growing where the plant draws everything directly from the water — there's no soil to store nutrients or buffer mistakes, so the feed has to be complete on its own. The 4% nitrogen supports leafy growth, the 3% phosphate backs roots and fruiting, and the 6% potash drives fruit quality and overall vigor. The nitrogen is split between nitrate, absorbed directly for a fast response, and a smaller ammoniacal and urea fraction for steadier feeding.
Beyond NPK: sea kelp (Ascophyllum nodosum) for natural growth compounds, plus 1.0% calcium and 0.5% magnesium and a full micronutrient package — iron, sulfur, manganese, zinc, boron, and copper. Micronutrients matter more in hydroponics than in soil, because a soilless plant has no reserve to fall back on: iron keeps new growth from yellowing, and calcium and magnesium prevent the tip-burn and interveinal yellowing that appear quickly in water culture. Keeping the reservoir near pH 5.0-6.0 is what lets the plant actually take all of this up.
Made For
Built for hydroponic and soilless growing — leafy greens, herbs, and lettuce in systems like Kratky, deep-water culture, NFT, and seed-pod countertop gardens, plus fruiting crops like tomatoes and peppers grown hydroponically.
Problems It Solves
- New growth yellowing in a soilless system
- Tip burn or interveinal yellowing on hydroponic crops
- Slow, weak growth in a reservoir or seed-pod garden
- Poor fruiting on hydroponic tomatoes and peppers
FAQs
How often should I feed my hydroponic plants?
Add 5 mL (1 tsp) per quart of feedwater — for leafy plants every 2 weeks, for fruiting plants weekly, since fruiting crops draw more. In seed-pod systems, add 5 mL for every 3 growing pods at the start and again as needed. Fruiting plants and warmer, faster-growing conditions use nutrients quicker, so check your reservoir regularly and top up on schedule rather than letting it run empty.
What pH should my hydroponic reservoir be?
Aim for pH 5.0-6.0. That range is where most nutrients stay available to plant roots in water culture — drift too high or too low and the plant can't take up certain nutrients even when they're present in the reservoir, which shows up as deficiency symptoms despite regular feeding. Check pH regularly with a meter or test kit and adjust with pH up or down as needed. In hydroponics, pH management is just as important as the nutrient dose itself.
Why are my hydroponic plants yellowing even though I'm feeding them?
In hydroponics, yellowing despite feeding is very often a pH problem, not a nutrient shortage — if the reservoir pH is out of the 5.0-6.0 range, roots can't absorb nutrients that are right there in the water. Check and correct pH first. It can also mean the reservoir has run low or the mix is old and needs refreshing. Because a soilless plant has no reserve to draw on, problems appear faster than in soil and need quicker correction.
Can I use this in a Kratky or countertop seed-pod garden?
Yes — it's designed for both. For standard hydroponic and Kratky setups, use 5 mL per quart of feedwater. For seed-pod countertop gardens, add 5 mL per 3 pods at the start and again as needed. The Kratky method is passive with no pump, so mix the nutrients in well at setup. Either way, keep an eye on the water level and pH, since small systems change concentration quickly as plants drink the reservoir down.
When will I see results?
Hydroponic plants often grow fast when the nutrients and pH are dialed in, with leafy greens showing visible new growth within days to a couple of weeks. Because there's no soil buffer, they respond quickly to good conditions — and to bad ones, so consistent feeding and pH are what keep growth steady. Fruiting crops follow their own cycle over the following weeks as they flower and set fruit.