Hibiscus Fertilizer
Support wave after wave of big tropical blooms with a liquid fertilizer made for hibiscus. It provides consistent nutrition for healthy growth while keeping plant care straightforward.
Simply mix it with water as directed for an easy way to provide consistent nutrition throughout the growing season.
Why You'll Love It
- Bloom Support Potassium leads the blend for wave after wave of big tropical flowers.
- Healthy Foliage Supports green leaves on plants that get watered often but fed rarely.
- Steady Growth Feeds potted patio hibiscus, braided standards and in-ground rose of Sharon.
Made by growers
More than a bottle on a shelf.
- Talk to real plant people. The team that mixes the formula answers your email.
- Made in-house, in the USA. Every bottle mixed and filled by us, not a third party.
- We're growers, not resellers. We use this on our own plants before it ships.
- Bundle savings only here. Pair any two TPS formulas — your order ships free.
Liquid hibiscus fertilizer with a 3-3.6-5.1 NPK plus kelp. Supports wave after wave of big tropical blooms.
How to Use Hibiscus Fertilizer
| Method | Amount | How Often |
|---|---|---|
| Watering can | 2 Tbs (30 mL) per gallon of water | Spring & summer: every 1–2 weeks |
| Watering can | Same dilution | Fall & winter: every 4 weeks |
| Hose end sprayer | Set dial to 1 oz (30 mL) | Spring & summer: every 1–2 weeks |
| Leaf misting (optional) | 1 tsp per quart (32 oz) of water | Every 1–2 weeks |
Mix into your normal watering — no separate feeding routine needed.
What's Inside
The 3-3.6-5.1 ratio (3% nitrogen, 3.6% phosphate, 5.1% potash) is built for a plant judged by its flowers — potassium leads to power bloom after bloom, phosphorus supports each round of bud set, and nitrogen stays moderate so energy goes to flowers instead of all leaf. All of the nitrogen is nitrate, the form roots absorb directly, for fast response and low burn risk on a heavy-feeding, frequently watered plant.
Beyond NPK: sea kelp (Ascophyllum nodosum) for natural growth compounds, plus unusually high calcium (2.1%), magnesium (0.75%), iron, manganese, zinc, boron, and copper. Calcium is the quiet workhorse for hibiscus — it firms the new growth that carries the buds — while magnesium and iron keep older leaves deep green instead of fading yellow between feedings.
Made For
Tropical and hardy hibiscus alike: potted patio plants (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis), braided standards, in-ground rose of Sharon (H. syriacus), and perennial swamp hibiscus (H. moscheutos) — outdoors, in containers, or overwintered inside.
Problems It Solves
- Buds that form, yellow, and drop before ever opening
- A plant that blooms in one flush then sits bare for weeks
- Yellowing leaves on a plant that's watered often
- Lots of soft leafy growth but few flowers on it
FAQs
How often should I fertilize my hibiscus?
Feed every 1–2 weeks in spring and summer and every 4 weeks in fall and winter — 2 Tbs (30 mL) per gallon in a watering can, or set a hose end sprayer to the 1 oz setting for beds and hedges. Hibiscus are heavy feeders while blooming, so steady dilute feeding beats occasional strong doses. Plants overwintered indoors stay on the winter schedule.
Why are my hibiscus buds falling off before they open?
Bud drop usually traces to stress during the week a bud was maturing — a hard dry-out, a move to a new spot, big temperature swings, or thrips feeding inside the bud. Nutrition is the part you can bank in advance: potassium and calcium build buds that hold on through minor stress. Keep watering even and feed steadily, and the drop rate falls over the following flushes.
Why are the leaves turning yellow?
A few yellow leaves after a move or a season change are normal shed. Widespread yellowing on a well-watered plant usually means hunger — hibiscus burn through nutrients fast when blooming — or soil that stays soggy between waterings. If the watering is right and it still fades, steady feeding brings deep green back on the new growth; the already-yellow leaves will still drop.
Will it burn my hibiscus?
No — the nitrogen is all nitrate with a low salt load, and at 2 Tbs per gallon it's diluted for regular use through the bloom season. Burn comes from strong, infrequent doses on dry roots, so don't feed a bone-dry pot — water first, then feed. New plantings can start at half strength for the first couple of feedings.
Does this work for hardy hibiscus and rose of Sharon too?
Yes — tropical Hibiscus rosa-sinensis in pots, hardy perennials like swamp hibiscus, and rose of Sharon shrubs all use the same formula and schedule. In-ground shrubs are easiest to feed with the hose end sprayer; potted tropicals do fine from the watering can. Stop feeding hardy types once they die back for winter and resume in spring.
When will I see results?
Leaf color improves within a couple of weeks; the bloom response shows over the following flush. Hibiscus set buds on new growth, so the flowers you're feeding for today open several weeks out — expect steadier, longer flushes across the season rather than an overnight burst. Buds already yellowing when you start won't be saved, but the next round holds better.
Related Products
Mycorrhizal Fungi for Gardens Bougainvillea Fertilizer Plumeria Fertilizer