Garlic Fertilizer
Support healthy tops and strong bulb development with a liquid fertilizer made for garlic. It provides consistent nutrition for healthy growth while keeping plant care straightforward.
Easy to mix into your normal watering routine, it makes regular feeding simple without adding a complicated extra step.
Why You'll Love It
- Steady Growth Supports healthy tops, which is where bulb size comes from.
- Fruit Development Consistent feeding through the season supports bulb development.
- Easy to Use One feed you can keep up from planting through harvest.
Made by growers
More than a bottle on a shelf.
- Talk to real plant people. The team that mixes the formula answers your email.
- Made in-house, in the USA. Every bottle mixed and filled by us, not a third party.
- We're growers, not resellers. We use this on our own plants before it ships.
- Bundle savings only here. Pair any two TPS formulas — your order ships free.
Garlic fertilizer formulated to support healthy tops and strong bulb development. Consistent feeding through the growing season helps each planted clove build a fuller head by harvest.
How to Use Garlic Fertilizer
| Method | Amount | How Often |
|---|---|---|
| Watering can — small plants (under 6") | 1 Tbs (15mL) per gallon of water | Feed once weekly through the growing season |
| Watering can — large plants (over 6") | 2 Tbs (30mL) per gallon of water | Feed once weekly through the growing season |
| Hose end sprayer | Set dial to the above feed rates | Feed once weekly through the growing season |
| Leaf misting (optional) | 1 tsp per quart (32 oz) of water | Spray on leaves every 1-2 weeks |
Mix into your normal watering — no separate feeding routine needed. Dose by shoot height: 1 Tbs per gallon while plants are under 6", 2 Tbs once they're taller. Feeding through spring is what sizes the bulb; ease off as the lower leaves start to brown before harvest.
What's Inside
A 3-3.6-5.1 ratio built for a bulb, not a leaf. Potassium leads at 5.1% because bulb sizing depends on moving sugars out of the green tops and down into storage — the same process that fills a flower bud fills a garlic bulb, and potassium governs it. Phosphate at 3.6% feeds root development, which matters unusually much here: fall-planted garlic spends winter building roots underground before it ever pushes serious top growth. Nitrogen sits at 3%, all nitrate — absorbed directly by roots, fast-acting with low burn risk — enough to grow the leaves that feed the bulb without pushing so much green that the plant stays leafy instead of sizing up.
Beyond NPK: sea kelp (Ascophyllum nodosum) for natural growth compounds, plus calcium at an unusually high 2.1% and 0.75% magnesium, with iron, manganese, zinc, boron, and copper. Sulfur-family and magnesium shortages show up first in garlic — magnesium drives the chlorophyll in those leaves, and each leaf corresponds to a wrapper on the finished bulb, so pale, failing foliage in spring means fewer wrappers and shorter storage life.
Made For
Hardneck varieties like Music, German Extra Hardy, and Chesnok Red, softneck types like Silverskin and Artichoke, plus elephant garlic — in raised beds, garden rows, and containers, from fall planting through spring sizing and summer harvest.
Problems It Solves
- Small bulbs at harvest despite healthy-looking tops
- Pale or yellowing leaves in spring when sizing should be happening
- Weak growth after winter in fall-planted beds
- Thin-skinned bulbs that don't store well
FAQs
How often should I feed garlic?
Feed once weekly through the growing season, dosing by shoot height: 1 Tbs (15mL) per gallon of water while plants are under 6", 2 Tbs (30mL) per gallon once they're taller. A hose end sprayer set to those rates covers rows fast. The critical window is spring — from the first flush of growth until the bulbs start sizing, which is when most of the bulb weight is added.
When should I stop fertilizing garlic before harvest?
Ease off once the lower leaves begin browning, typically a few weeks before harvest. At that point the plant is transferring everything into the bulb and starting to cure, and late nitrogen can produce soft growth and bulbs that don't store well. Most growers also stop watering in that window, which helps the wrappers dry down properly for storage.
Why is my garlic so small?
The usual causes aren't nutritional. Small planting cloves produce small bulbs — always plant the biggest cloves you have. Planting too late in fall means too little root growth before winter. Crowded spacing, weed competition, and leaving scapes on hardneck varieties all cost bulb size too. Feeding through spring absolutely helps sizing, but clove size and planting timing set the ceiling.
Should I cut the scapes off my garlic?
On hardneck varieties, yes — cut the curling flower stalk when it makes its first loop. Left on, the plant spends energy on a seed head instead of the bulb, and removing scapes typically produces noticeably larger garlic. Scapes are also excellent food, so nothing is wasted. Softneck varieties usually don't produce scapes, so there's nothing to cut.
When do I plant and harvest garlic?
Plant in fall, four to six weeks before your ground freezes, so roots establish before winter — spring planting works in mild climates but usually yields smaller bulbs. Harvest the following summer when roughly the lower third to half of the leaves have browned but several remain green. Pulling too late means split wrappers and poor storage; too early means undersized bulbs.
When will I see results?
Top growth responds within 1-2 weeks — all the nitrogen is nitrate, absorbed directly by the roots. Bulb results arrive at harvest, because garlic sizes underground where you can't see it: feeding consistently from spring green-up through sizing is what shows up as bigger heads in summer. Fall-planted garlic fed through its first spring shows the clearest difference.
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