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Daffodil Bulb Fertilizer

Our Daffodil Bulb Fertilizer is a liquid plant food made specifically for daffodil varieties, in beds or containers. It provides balanced nutrition to support budding and bloom, healthy foliage, and strong roots.

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When your daffodils may benefit from feeding

  • During the active growing season, when new shoots, leaves, flowers or fruit are forming
  • When plants have been growing in the same bed or container for several seasons
  • After heavy rain or frequent irrigation, which can carry nutrients below the root zone
  • For plants in containers, raised beds or sandy soils that hold few nutrients
  • As buds form and through the flowering period, when demand is highest

Plant appearance can also be affected by light, watering, roots, temperature, and other growing conditions, so feeding is one part of overall plant care.

Results you can see

Feeds foliage for deeper color and a brighter, more lively look.

Feeds foliage for deeper color and a brighter, more lively look.

Encourages fresh leaf and stem growth for a fuller, thriving plant.

Encourages fresh leaf and stem growth for a fuller, thriving plant.

Supports healthy, resilient roots that absorb nutrients more effectively.

Supports healthy, resilient roots that absorb nutrients more effectively.

Works for daffodil varieties

  • King Alfred Daffodil
  • Dutch Master Daffodil
  • Ice Follies Daffodil
  • Tete-a-Tete Daffodil
  • Thalia Daffodil
  • Double Daffodils
  • Jonquilla Daffodils
  • Paperwhite Narcissus
  • Daffodil Bulb

How to use

  1. Watering can — bulbs under 6 inches

    1 Tbs (15 mL) per gallon of water

    Feed once weekly through the growing season

  2. Watering can — bulbs over 6 inches

    2 Tbs (30 mL) per gallon of water

    Feed once weekly through the growing season

  3. Hose end sprayer

    Set dial to the above feed rates

    Feed once weekly through the growing season

  4. Leaf misting (optional)

    1 tsp per quart (32 oz) of water

    Spray on leaves every 1-2 weeks

What's inside
A 3-3.6-5.1 ratio built around your bulb's calendar. Phosphate at 3.6% supports flower formation and root development, and potassium at 5.1% drives the process that actually determines next spring's display: after the petals fade, daffodil foliage spends six to eight weeks pushing sugars down into the bulb, and potassium governs that sugar movement. Nitrogen sits at 3% — all nitrate, the form roots absorb directly with low burn risk — enough to keep the leaves green and working through that recharge without pushing floppy growth.

Beyond NPK: sea kelp (Ascophyllum nodosum) for natural growth compounds, plus calcium at an unusually high 2.1% and 0.75% magnesium, with iron, manganese, zinc, boron, and copper. Magnesium and iron are the two naturalized bulb plantings run short of first — both drive the chlorophyll production those post-bloom leaves depend on, and pale, weak foliage in May is what a thin flower display next March is made of.

Label facts

NPK 3-3.6-5.1 with 2.1% calcium and 0.75% magnesium, plus iron, manganese, zinc, boron and copper.

Derived from kelp (ascophyllum nodosum), potassium phosphate, potassium nitrate, calcium nitrate, magnesium nitrate, boric acid, copper sulfate, ferric sulfate, manganese sulfate, zinc sulfate.

One 8 oz bottle makes 16 gallons of feed at 1 Tbs per gallon — the 32 oz makes 64.

Store cool and dark. Guaranteed 12 months from purchase; keeps up to 2 years.

How to care for daffodils

Light

Full sun to light shade in spring. Planting under deciduous trees works well, since daffodils finish flowering before the canopy leafs out and shades the ground.

Water

Keep soil moist while leaves and flowers are growing. Once the foliage yellows, stop watering, because bulbs sitting in summer wet are the most common way to lose them.

Soil

Loose, well drained soil around pH 6.0 to 7.0. Set bulbs pointed end up, about three times as deep as your bulb is tall, roughly six inches down.

Planting

Plant in fall, six to eight weeks before the ground freezes, spacing bulbs four to six inches apart. Lift and divide crowded clumps every four or five years.

Feeding

Feed as shoots appear in early spring and again right after flowering, mixing Daffodil Bulb Fertilizer into your watering. That window after bloom is when your bulb restocks.

Bloom

Leave the foliage alone after flowering until it yellows and pulls away easily, usually about six weeks. Braiding or cutting it early cuts your bulb's season short.

Frequently asked questions

How often should I feed daffodil bulbs?

Once a week through the growing season, dosed by size rather than by season. Daffodil Bulb Fertilizer is mixed at 1 tablespoon per gallon of water for shoots under 6 inches, or 2 tablespoons per gallon for plants taller than that, and a hose-end sprayer set to those rates covers naturalized drifts quickly. An optional leaf misting at 1 teaspoon per quart every 1–2 weeks adds to it. Keep feeding after the flowers fade: that’s when the leaves are refilling your bulb, and the potassium in the formula supports that sugar movement.

Why did my daffodils come up blind with no flowers?

Blind daffodils almost always trace to one of three things: foliage cut back too early last year, so your bulb never recharged; clumps grown too crowded to size up; or shade increasing as nearby trees filled in. Daffodil Bulb Fertilizer helps a starved bulb rebuild, with phosphate for flower formation and potassium for the post-bloom recharge, but that works over a season or two and only alongside the real fixes: leaving leaves until they yellow, dividing crowded clumps and giving them sun.

When can I cut back daffodil leaves?

Not until they yellow and flop on their own, roughly six to eight weeks after bloom. Those leaves are your bulb's only way to refill for next year, and cutting, braiding or mowing them while green is the most common reason daffodil displays decline. Feeding Daffodil Bulb Fertilizer through those weeks supports the work the leaves are doing: nitrogen keeps them green and active, and potassium governs the movement of sugars down into the bulb. Snap off spent flower heads if you like, but leave every leaf until it gives up.

Should I fertilize when I plant new bulbs in fall?

It’s worthwhile, though not for the reason most people expect. New bulbs arrive with next spring’s flower already formed inside, so feeding at planting doesn’t change the first year’s bloom. What it does support is root establishment before winter, which the phosphate and the calcium in Daffodil Bulb Fertilizer are suited to. The feeding that shapes your display is the following spring’s, from emergence through the six weeks after flowering, because that’s when your bulb builds what it will spend the March after.

Do daffodils need dividing, and does feeding help crowded clumps?

Both. Clumps that have naturalized for several years compete with themselves, producing plenty of leaves and fewer flowers, and no fertilizer solves crowding. Lift and divide after the foliage dies back, replanting your bulbs a few inches apart. Daffodil Bulb Fertilizer then helps the divisions size up faster: phosphate supports the new roots, and potassium supports the post-bloom recharge that builds bulb size, so they return to full bloom in a season or two rather than three.

When will I see results?

Foliage responds first. All of the nitrogen in Daffodil Bulb Fertilizer is nitrate, which roots absorb directly, so expect greener, sturdier leaves within 2–3 weeks, with the magnesium and iron supporting the chlorophyll those leaves need. The flower payoff comes next spring by design: feeding through and after this year’s bloom is what builds next year’s display, because your bulb stores what the leaves send down. Bulbs that were starved or crowded often need two seasons of steady feeding and full leaf-ripening to recover completely.

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Daffodil Bulb Fertilizer 8oz $11.99