Daffodil bulb fertilizer for vibrant flowers and strong root systems. Feeding after bloom helps the leaves replenish each bulb for better growth and flowering the following season.
Feeds foliage for deeper color and a brighter, more lively look.
Encourages fresh leaf and stem growth for a fuller, thriving plant.
Supports healthy, resilient roots that absorb nutrients more effectively.
Mix
Shake Well and Add 1 tsp per quart (32 oz) of water.
Feed
Water your plants as normal. Spring & summer: every 1–2 weeks. Fall & winter: every 4 weeks.
Grow
Watch how your plants thrive!
Feed once weekly through the growing season, dosing by size: 1 Tbs (15mL) per gallon of water for shoots under 6", or 2 Tbs (30mL) per gallon for plants over 6". A hose end sprayer set to those rates covers naturalized drifts quickly. Optional leaf misting is 1 tsp per quart every 1-2 weeks. Keep feeding after the flowers fade — that's when the bulb refills.
At 1 tsp per quart, the 8 oz bottle makes about 48 watering cans of feed. For a typical shelf of 10–15 plants fed every 1–2 weeks in season, that's several months of feeding — and the 32 oz bottle four times that.
Blind daffodils almost always trace to one of three things: foliage cut back too early last year, so the bulb never recharged; clumps grown too crowded to size up; or too much shade as nearby trees filled in. Feeding helps a starved bulb rebuild over a season or two, but the real fixes are leaving leaves until they yellow, dividing crowded clumps, and giving them sun.
Not until they yellow and flop on their own, roughly six to eight weeks after bloom. Those leaves are the bulb's only way to refill for next year, and cutting, braiding, or mowing them green is the single most common reason daffodil displays decline. Snap off spent flower heads if you like — that prevents seed production — but leave every leaf until it gives up.
New bulbs arrive with next spring's flower already formed inside, so feeding at planting doesn't change the first year's bloom — it supports root establishment before winter, which is worthwhile. The feeding that shapes your display is the following spring's, from emergence through the six weeks after flowering. That's when the bulb builds what it will spend next March.
Both. Clumps that have naturalized for several years compete with themselves — plenty of leaves, fewer flowers — and no amount of fertilizer solves crowding. Lift and divide after the foliage dies back, replanting bulbs a few inches apart. Feeding then helps the divisions size up faster, so they return to full bloom in a season or two rather than three.
Foliage responds first: all the nitrogen is nitrate, absorbed directly by the roots, so expect greener, sturdier leaves within 2-3 weeks. The flower payoff comes next spring by design — feeding through and after this year's bloom is what builds next year's display. Bulbs that were starved or crowded often need two seasons of proper feeding and leaf-ripening to fully recover.
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