Feed your azaleas after they flower with our liquid Azalea Fertilizer, made for azaleas in acidic garden beds and containers. It supplies supplemental nutrition for the new leaves and shoots that carry next spring's flower buds. Mix it with water and apply around the shallow root area.
Azaleas set next year's buds on the growth they make right after this year's bloom, so late spring and early summer are when the shrub uses nutrients most. They also insist on acidic, well-drained soil; in alkaline ground, iron becomes hard for the roots to take up and leaves pale.
Our formula supplies nitrate nitrogen with a larger share of phosphate and potash, plus calcium, magnesium and micronutrients including iron in a kelp base. It mixes into water, so you can apply it over the root area without working dry product in around the shallow roots.
Mix at the rate on your bottle and apply after bloom while new shoots are growing, over moist, acidic soil, then less often through fall and winter as the bottle directs. Prune, if at all, right after flowering.
Why growers choose it: Post-bloom liquid feeding timed to the way azaleas build next spring's flowers.
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Yellowing leaves with green veins often signal high soil pH. This fertilizer is not verified as a soil acidifier and cannot restore buds pruned off last season.
Richer color and fuller, longer-lasting blooms.
Encourages fresh leaf and stem growth for a fuller, thriving plant.
Strong healthy root development for better water and nutrient uptake.
Watering can
2 Tbs (30 mL) per gallon of water
Spring & summer: every 1–2 weeks · Fall & winter: every 4 weeks
Hose end sprayer
Set dial to 1 oz (30 mL) setting
Spring & summer: every 1–2 weeks
Leaf misting (optional)
1 tsp per quart (32 oz) of water
Every 1–2 weeks
Morning sun with afternoon shade, or dappled light all day. Full southern sun bleaches the leaves, while deep shade gives thin growth and very few flower buds.
Keep the soil evenly moist but never soggy. Azalea roots sit in the top few inches of soil and dry out fast, so water deeply once or twice a week in summer heat.
Acidic and loose, pH 4.5 to 6.0, with sharp drainage. Work in pine bark or peat at planting and mulch with pine straw to hold moisture and keep the pH low.
Feed Azalea Fertilizer every one to two weeks through spring and summer, and about once a month in fall and winter. Mix it into water and pour it over the root zone.
Prune within a few weeks after the flowers fade. Azaleas set next spring's buds in summer, so cutting later in the season removes the blooms you were waiting for.
Cold tolerance varies by type, and most garden azaleas handle winter lows near 0 to 10F once established. Encore types rebloom in summer and fall if water stays steady.
Azalea Fertilizer is built for steady, light feeding, which suits the shallow, fine roots azaleas grow. Feed every 1–2 weeks through spring and summer while your shrub is growing and setting next year’s buds, then every 4 weeks in fall and winter. Mix 2 tablespoons per gallon in a watering can, or use the 1-ounce setting on a hose-end sprayer for a border of shrubs. Because it goes into your regular watering, the nutrition arrives in small, consistent amounts rather than occasional heavy doses.
If the cause is nutrition, yes. Yellow leaves with green veins usually mean iron or magnesium isn’t reaching your azalea, and Azalea Fertilizer carries both, with all of its nitrogen in nitrate form so new growth responds quickly. The catch with azaleas is soil pH: above about 6.0, iron and magnesium lock up in the soil no matter how much you feed. Keep the soil in the 4.5–6.0 range so the nutrients in the formula can reach the roots, and new leaves should come in green over the following weeks.
Feed through spring and into summer. Azalea Fertilizer leans toward phosphorus and potassium, both outweighing its nitrogen, so it directs energy into flower buds and root strength rather than excess leafy growth. That matters most right after flowering, when azaleas set the buds for next spring. Ease off by late summer: late feeding pushes tender growth that won’t harden before winter and can come at the expense of buds. Drop to the every-4-weeks schedule through fall and winter, then resume the spring pace as growth returns.
No. Azalea Fertilizer supplies nutrition; it isn’t a soil acidifier. Azaleas need acidic soil, roughly pH 4.5–6.0, to take up the iron, magnesium and other nutrients the formula carries, so the two jobs work together but are done separately. Test your soil first. If the pH is high, use elemental sulfur or another acidifier to bring it into range, then feed on the regular schedule. In soil that’s already acidic, the formula alone covers your shrub's nutrition, and the pH work is already done for you.
Azalea Fertilizer is a dilute liquid feed, and dilution is what matters here. Fertilizer burn happens when concentrated salts sit against the roots: too much product in too little water, or granules piled at the base of a shrub with shallow, fine roots. Mixed at 2 tablespoons per gallon and applied every 1–2 weeks, the nitrate nitrogen and the rest of the formula arrive in solution at a strength the roots take up as they water. For newly planted shrubs still establishing, start at half strength for the first two feedings.
Foliage first, flowers on the next cycle. With soil pH in range, new growth on an azalea fed with Azalea Fertilizer typically comes in greener within the first few weeks, as the iron, magnesium and nitrate nitrogen reach the roots. Blooms follow your azalea's own calendar: azaleas set buds the season before they open, so the phosphorus and potassium you feed through spring and summer show up as next spring’s flowers. Consistent feeding across one growing season is what delivers the fuller show.
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